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Ukuthwala umnqwazi sisimo sengqondo

Kwindlela kaMargaret Howell yeNtwasahlobo / yeHlabathi yowama-2020, sabona ibhulukhwe emhlophe emhlophe, ihempe ezigqithileyo kunye nehempe zomsebenzi eziluhlaza, iipaki ezilula, kunye neebhutsi ezifanelekileyo. Mhlawumbi yayiyimood, kodwa iikawusi ngaphezulu kweblukhwe azange zibonakale zimbi, uninzi lwazo lwalunxibe imbotyi yeFlakisiiminqwazi Kwakunjalo naseGucci, apho uphawu lwentengiso luka-Alessandro Michaele lwalushukunyiswa kukwaziswa kobusuku bobusuku imbotyi iminqwazi kwimibala yesikwere ebonakalayo kunye neon ekhanyayo.

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Imbotyi umnqwazi, ebambelela ngokuqinileyo entloko njengebhanti, ayisiyiyo inkangeleko entsha yabalobi okanye yezifundo, kodwa njengesixhobo "sokunethezeka", ibikhe yabonwa ngamadoda nabasetyhini, ebusika okanye ehlotyeni. eneejean ezigugileyo okanye ijezi esele zisetyenzisiwe, ngoku inxitywe ngamakhadigadi ezenziwe ngesandla okanye iisuti zomyili. UHowell akaboni nto iphosakeleyo kuloo nto; iminqwazi, njengezihlangu, iseta ithoni yengubo, utsho.

Ukukhangela iminqwazi ye-beanie kuye kwanyuka kulo nyaka uphelileyo ukuba ibe yenye yezona hats zithandwa kakhulu, kwaye azinayo imiba yobukhulu ebakhathaza abantu abaninzi. Iminqwazi ebomvu ye-beanie ene-silhouette knits kunye ne-hoodies iyeyona isitayile esitratweni. iilogo kunye neendlela ezithandekayo zefashoni zinika indlela kwimixube evulekileyo kunye nemixube engalawulekiyo, iisuti azisakruquki kodwa iseyile yovakalelo lomntu wonke, kunye nomnqwazi we-beanie onesuti uziva ngathi yi-'80s Armani suit enesikipa endaweni yehempe kunye iqhina.

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Ayisiyiyo nje iminqwazi ye-beanie, kodwa isitayile se-Chanel's School Girl, esihlonipha imiboniso bhanyabhanya yamaza amatsha, ikwabonisa umnqwazi othe tyaba kunye nama-corms aphakanyisiweyo. Iifilimu ezintsha ze-Wave zinika umbono owahlukileyo kunye nonyamezelayo wabafazi base-France-ubukrelekrele obujonge ngaphakathi iinwele ze-pixie, i-eyeliner ekhombayo, intyatyambo enkulu ebomvu umnqwazi, okanye enxibe imitya yeBrittany kunye neeketi.1 Uya kuba ngunyaka wezixhobo, kunye neenqwelomoya zaseNew York, eLondon, eMilan naseParis ezilawulwa ziingceba ezisebenzayo ezinokulingana nexesha lonyaka le-wardrobe emva kwexesha lonyaka, ikwayindlela entle yokugcina ikhabethe lakho lizinzile ngaphandle kokuxinana. Emva kwayo yonke loo nto, izinto ezifana "nokunxiba okuthambileyo," zinokudala ukudibanisa imood kunye nesitayile.

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n ngenkulungwane ye-19 nasekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20, iminqwazi yayinxitywa ngabantu bazo zonke iindidi zentlalo, kubandakanya nabo bakumanqanaba asezantsi, de kwaba liMfazwe yesibini yeHlabathi, kwakuthathwa njengokufanelekileyo ukuba indoda inganxibi umnqwazi. isitya esityikityiweyo, okanye umnqwazi kaDerby, ubunjwe njengembiza esezantsi kwaye wabizwa emva kwenkulungwane ye-19 indlebe yase-Bhritane eyadumisa isitayile. Umnqwazi othambileyo onomphezulu ojikeleziweyo kunye nobubanzi obuninzi obunokuthi ujikeleze, uyintandokazi yenceba, ayisetyenziselwa ukukhusela imvula kuphela, kodwa inokuphinda isongelwe ibekwe kwibrifkheyisi. indoda phakathi ICasablanca” kumphandi wabucala kwi Ubuthongo obukhulu, bahamba ngezitrato zaseNew York besongelwe ngamadontsi omsele kwaye banxibe iifedoras ezimnyama nezimpunga.

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Umbhali uPeter Mayer wayekhe wacinga ukuba iminqwazi yamadoda inemfashini kwaye ibukeka, kwaye wathetha into malunga nomntu. "Iminqwazi ihlala iluphawu lwentengiso lomntu njengokuba impumlo ingumbonakalo womntu," ubhale watsho malunga neTaste Taste.

Vula " Molo waseBritane" Kunyaka ophelileyo, umamkeli wanika uTrump isipho-umnqwazi waseChurchillian-njengondwendwe, ukuhamba kukaMnumzana Trump kwabangela isiphithiphithi kwi-intanethi, ngokucacileyo kwinqanaba elahlukileyo kwimpikiswano atyholwa ukuba uyibangele ngeenwele zakhe ezixikiweyo.

Iicigars, iintonga zokuhamba, iqhina lokugoba kunye ne-swimsuits enye yazo zonke iimpahla zikaChurchill, kunye neminqwazi yakhe ye-quirky yanika abazobi beekhathuni itheko lasendle ngeminyaka yoo-1920. UChurchill wayekhathazekile okomzuzwana kwaye wabhala kwisincoko esithi: "Enye yezona zinto zibalulekileyo Izixhobo zegosa likarhulumente luphawu olwahlukileyo olufundwa ngumntu wonke ukujonga nokuqonda. I-Wisp yebunzi likaDisraeli, ikhola kaGladstone, iindevu zikaNkosi uRandolph Churchill, iiglasi zikaChamberlain, umbhobho kaBaldwin - ezi 'zinto' zibalulekile. Andinayo nayiphi na le miqondiso, ngoko ke iikhathuni ziyile amabali eminqwazi yam ukwanelisa imfuno. "

Wacacisa ke ukuba le ntsomi yaqala ngexesha lomkhankaso wokhetho lowe-1910. WayeseSouthport ehamba elunxwemeni kunye nenkosikazi yakhe. "Umnqwazi ombi omncinci kakhulu - andazi ukuba uvela phi - wawusele usezimpahla zam. Ihleli phezu kwetafile eholweni, ndayibeka ndingakhange ndiyicinge. Sithe xa sibuya ekuhambeni kwethu, umfoti weza wafota. Ukusukela ngoko, abenzi beekhathuni kunye nabasasazi bezincoko babephikisana neminqwazi yam: zingaphi, ngokuchanekileyo; Bakheke ngendlela engaqhelekanga; Kutheni ndihlala nditshintsha umnqwazi wam; Ndibaxabisa kangakanani, njalo-njalo. Kukungakhathali okuninzi, kwaye konke kusekwe kumfanekiso."

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Kodwa umbhali ngobomi bukaChurchill uPeter UMendelssohn ukholelwa ukuba ibali likaChurchill aliyonyani. U-Churchill, owazi kakuhle ubuxoki, ngekhe asilele ukuwubona umahluko phakathi komnqwazi wakhe kunye nawo wonke umntu. UChurchill wazama iindlela ezininzi, ukusukela kumnqwazi ophezulu ukuya kwisitya sokubhowula, eyona idumileyo Umnqwazi ka Humboldt luhlobo loboya oluvakala umnqwazi kunye nomngxunya onjengomnwe phezulu, isangqa esirinjiweyo kunye neribhoni yesatin embindini. Ifunyenwe nguKing Edward VII ngesiJamani. Idolophu yaseBad Homeburg kwiminyaka ye-1880 kwaye yabuyela eNgilani. UChurchill wayeneminqwazi emininzi, ukusuka kumnyama weklasikhi ukuya kumbala ongwevu okhanyayo kunye neeribhoni ezimnyama, kubandakanya umnqwazi kaHumboldt owawuthengisa iidola ezili-11,775 kwifandesi ngo-1991 kwaye unegolide. Ukubhalwa kwamagama okuqala kaChurchill ngaphakathi.

UJohn F. Kennedy, kunye nesitayile sakhe esitsha, sangoku kunye neenwele ezingqindilili ezingafane zigutyungelwe, ngaphandle kwamatyala anqabileyo, yayisisigqoko sokweneneer. Kodwa imithetho yamanenekazi okuqala yahlukile, ngakumbi esidlangalaleni.Ukukhangela kuGoogle, "uJacqueline Kennedy's Hat" lukhetho oluzimeleyo, olubhekisa kuMnqwazi omncinci ojikelezileyo onomphezulu othe tyaba, umzimba ongekho nzulu kwaye awunomphetho, kuba ujongeka ngathi Ibhokisi yePilisi. Ikwabizwa ngokuba yi-Pillbox Hat, ethathwe kwiminqwazi yomkhosi, eyenzeka ngo-Januwari 20, 1961, yabhalwa ngononophelo, njengoko uKennedy waba ngumongameli wokuqala waseMelika ozelwe ngekhulu lama-20 ukuzisa idilesi yokuqala kumabonakude ombala.

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Kodwa ayizizo zonke izinto ezihambe ngokwesicwangciso. Ngobusuku nje obunye, kwawa ikhephu eWashington, DC, kwaye kwimozulu ebandayo ngosuku olulandelayo, bonke abanye abahloniphekileyo babenxibe idyasi ye-mink engqindilili, ngaphandle kukaJacqueline. Ingesosi kuphela isitya esichazayo kwimisebenzi yezopolitiko kaJackie kunye nesimbo sakhe, yaba yenye yeembonakalo ezidumileyo kwimbali yokusekwa kuka-Mongameli Ukusukela ngoko ukuya phambili, ibhokisi yebhokisi yonyango yaba yinto ngo-1960..

UJacqueline kwathiwa akayithandi iminqwazi kuba wayecinga ukuba inkulu kakhulu, uHalston, umyili wesigqoko, wasebenza ixesha elongezelelekileyo ukulungisa le ngxaki. Ngaphambi kokuba ayinike uJacqueline, wayibeka entlokweni yakhe, wahlala phakathi kwesipili sangaphambili nangasemva. , kwaye wayijikela ngapha nangapha ukuqinisekisa ukuba ijongeka ifezekile kuzo zonke ii-engile. Kwakunomoya kangangokuba uJacqueline wolula isandla wabopha umnqwazi wakhe, eshiya isifotho esinzulu ekungekho namnye kwigumbi eliqapheleyo, kodwa sasasazeka kwihlabathi lonke, ukusuka kuluntu olungasentla ukuya eMidwest yasemaphandleni. "Wonke umntu okhuphele inkangeleko wayishiya intshinga," watsho uHalston kamva ehleka.

Ngomhla wokubulawa kuka-JFK, uJacqueline wayenxibe ibhonethi ethe tyaba kunye nengubo eluhlaza-epinki, isuti enegazi yatshixelwa kwi-National Archives eMaryland kwaye yayalelwa ukuba ihlale ifihliwe kuluntu kude kube ngama-2103, kwaye umnqwazi andizange ndiphinde ndibone.

Ngama-1970, ngokufika kwabalungisi beenwele, iinwele zaba nefashoni ngakumbi kuneminqwazi. Ngokuthe ngcembe, iindlela zokwenza iminqwazi zenkulungwane ye-19 ezinje ngokuthunga iminqwazi yomnqwazi kunye nokuthunga umnqwazi zonke kodwa zanyamalala koomasifundisane apho iminqwazi eyenziwe ngokwezifiso inokwenziwa ngezandla. Imarike ibanga iminqwazi njengezixhobo zokuzonwabisa, endaweni nje yesiganeko esithile. Imakethi yomnqwazi ixabisa malunga ne- $ 15 yeebhiliyoni ngonyaka, ngokwe-Euromonitor, inkampani yophando lwentengiso-iqhezu lemarike yesikhwama seebhegi zeedola ezingama-52. ngaphandle kweentloko ezinkulu zefashoni, ibango leminqwazi liyakhula.

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"Yaba yindlela entsha yokubonisa, uhlobo olutsha lwe tattoo ngendlela ethile." Ngokomyili uPriscilla Royer, "iminqwazi ingayitshintsha imbonakalo yomntu, nokuba sisimo sengqondo, ngendlela elula." URoyer unomdla kubuhule umnqwazi, ukuzama ukophula uluvo lwesiko elakhe lavakala umnqwazi kuluntu.Ingxaki yeminqwazi evakala kakhulu kukuba akukho lula ukuhamba nayo, ke usebenza ngezinto ezithambileyo ezisonge njengeempahla kunye nesiliphu. Emva koko waba nombono ongqongqo. Njani ngeminqwazi endaweni yeambrela? Ukusuka kuyilo lwesilhouette ukuya ekukhetheni umbandela wokwenza, unomdla wokunxiba i-tiara. "Ngokwezentlalo, amandla ayo anomdla."


Ixesha Post: Jun-11-2021